Leroux Themed Walking Tour
When reading through the original novel, it was apparent how much the city of Paris also played a role in the book. From the Garnier Opera to the small Medieval streets, Leroux added to his novel details which gives a greater sense of place and personality. After noticing just how many details were left behind in his novel, I wanted to seek out these locations to better understand the characters Leroux created. So began part of my intent in traveling to Paris. My journey was spread across a few days, but most of these streets and places can be visited within one day alone if given proper timing and pace. Here you can see the locations I visited, as well as other places of interest which you may be interested in learning more about.
Click photos for large images and captions. For my photos from this section, please visit the photobucket page.
Though not all locations on this page are shown on the above map, those numbered are accessible within walking capacity. The walk does take a good deal of time and covers some distance, but this is how I experienced it. Metro stops can be utilized for any of these locations, but be aware that not all lines are direct connections. Below are the direct routes which I used for my Leroux themed walking tour.
Gare Montparnasse
"The Vicomte de Chagny hurriedly consulted a railway guide, dressed as quickly as he could, wrote a few lines for his valet to take to his brother and jumped into a cab which brought him to the Gare Montparnasse just in time to miss the morning train."
Gare Montparnasse is the station which Raoul departed from to visit Christine in Perros-Guirec. Built in 1840 and reconstructed in 1969, it's quite modernized and busy inside. The station is most popular for a train derailment which happened in 1895. The photo is added below to also give an idea of what the front facade looked like back in the day. It is easy to get to because the Montparnasse Bienvenue metro stop takes you right up inside of the station. There is easy access to all parts of the station so you could walk up and see the trains inside, ready for departure. Outside of the entrance is a booth set up to purchase Crepes and apparently Panini-style sandwiches as well, though I only stopped for the sweets. Today, one traveling from Paris to Perros-Guirec would take a train from Gare Nord, which is the northernmost train station in Paris, and then transfer at Tergnier en route for Lannion. If a traveler is lucky enough to get the chance to go over to the Bretagne region, they would be able to see the train station of Lannion, which is where Raoul and Christine would have both traveled through for Perros-Guirec.
Gare Montparnasse was my first stop. I used the 6 line of the Metro and got off at the Montparnasse-Bienvenue stop. This is a major connection of metro trains and if you follow the signs, it will lead you directly to the train station upstairs. Other lines connecting to Montparnasse-Bienvenue are the 4, 12 and 13.
"Day was breaking when he alighted at Lannion. He hurried to the diligence for Perros-Guirec. He was the only passanger."
Gare Montparnasse is the station which Raoul departed from to visit Christine in Perros-Guirec. Built in 1840 and reconstructed in 1969, it's quite modernized and busy inside. The station is most popular for a train derailment which happened in 1895. The photo is added below to also give an idea of what the front facade looked like back in the day. It is easy to get to because the Montparnasse Bienvenue metro stop takes you right up inside of the station. There is easy access to all parts of the station so you could walk up and see the trains inside, ready for departure. Outside of the entrance is a booth set up to purchase Crepes and apparently Panini-style sandwiches as well, though I only stopped for the sweets. Today, one traveling from Paris to Perros-Guirec would take a train from Gare Nord, which is the northernmost train station in Paris, and then transfer at Tergnier en route for Lannion. If a traveler is lucky enough to get the chance to go over to the Bretagne region, they would be able to see the train station of Lannion, which is where Raoul and Christine would have both traveled through for Perros-Guirec.
Gare Montparnasse was my first stop. I used the 6 line of the Metro and got off at the Montparnasse-Bienvenue stop. This is a major connection of metro trains and if you follow the signs, it will lead you directly to the train station upstairs. Other lines connecting to Montparnasse-Bienvenue are the 4, 12 and 13.
"Day was breaking when he alighted at Lannion. He hurried to the diligence for Perros-Guirec. He was the only passanger."
Rue de Rivoli
"And I had the rest of the story from the lips of the daroga himself. When I went to see him, he was still living in his little flat in the Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Tuileries."
The street where the Persian lived. It is within close proximity to the Opera and has many high-end stores. The street runs through many popular tourist spots in Paris, including the Marais, le Louvre, and Tuileries Gardens. The Persian was said to live across from the Tuileries gardens, which is where I focused my walk and photographs. Napoleon ordered the street be built through the heart of Paris with its name coming from a victorious battle against the Austrian army. It now has many shops and high-end stores along the street, and particularly by the Tuileries gardens there are many tourist shops which my travel companions and I enjoyed stopping in. The smaller apartments tend to be on the top floors of the buildings, making it curious to know whether this was where the Persian had secured his home in Paris.
"Raoul now remembered that his brother had once shown him that mysterious person, of whom nothing was known except that he was a Persian and that he lived in a little old-fashioned flat in the Rue de Rivoli. The man with the ebony skin, the eyes of jade and the astrakhan cap bent over Raoul."
The street where the Persian lived. It is within close proximity to the Opera and has many high-end stores. The street runs through many popular tourist spots in Paris, including the Marais, le Louvre, and Tuileries Gardens. The Persian was said to live across from the Tuileries gardens, which is where I focused my walk and photographs. Napoleon ordered the street be built through the heart of Paris with its name coming from a victorious battle against the Austrian army. It now has many shops and high-end stores along the street, and particularly by the Tuileries gardens there are many tourist shops which my travel companions and I enjoyed stopping in. The smaller apartments tend to be on the top floors of the buildings, making it curious to know whether this was where the Persian had secured his home in Paris.
"Raoul now remembered that his brother had once shown him that mysterious person, of whom nothing was known except that he was a Persian and that he lived in a little old-fashioned flat in the Rue de Rivoli. The man with the ebony skin, the eyes of jade and the astrakhan cap bent over Raoul."
Marketed number 1 on map: From Gare Montparnasse, it is easiest to take the 13 (toward Universite) and switch at Champs Elysées to the 1 line (toward Chateau de Vincennes). Take two stops and get off at Tuileries. You will exit onto Rue de Rivoli.
Rue du Faubourg de Saint Honoré
"About the same time, Carlotta, who had a small house of her own in the Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré, rang for her maid, who brought her letters to her bed. Among them was an anonymous missive, written in red ink, in a hesitating clumsy hand..."
Though not particularly wide and much less impressive than the neighboring Avenue de Champs Elysées, Rue du Faubourg de Saint Honoré is said to be one of the most fashionable streets in the world. Originally, this street was not more than a small dirt road outside of the city wall which accommodated a small village leading toward the Louvre and the central market of Les Halles. After becoming an official suburb of Paris, the street was renamed Rue du Faubourg de Saint Honoré. 1860 was when the street became within the Parisian city limits. Now the Elysées Palace, official home of the President of France, rests on this street (which I so illegally walked on the snow-covered grass on... oops!). The homes on the rue are rested above shops lining the street, like many of the living arrangements in Paris. They are small, yet comfortable and posh from the outside, which seems fitting for the prima donna we all know almost any version of the Phantom story.
Though not particularly wide and much less impressive than the neighboring Avenue de Champs Elysées, Rue du Faubourg de Saint Honoré is said to be one of the most fashionable streets in the world. Originally, this street was not more than a small dirt road outside of the city wall which accommodated a small village leading toward the Louvre and the central market of Les Halles. After becoming an official suburb of Paris, the street was renamed Rue du Faubourg de Saint Honoré. 1860 was when the street became within the Parisian city limits. Now the Elysées Palace, official home of the President of France, rests on this street (which I so illegally walked on the snow-covered grass on... oops!). The homes on the rue are rested above shops lining the street, like many of the living arrangements in Paris. They are small, yet comfortable and posh from the outside, which seems fitting for the prima donna we all know almost any version of the Phantom story.
Marketed number 2 on map: You can continue walking down Rue de Rivoli, enjoying the garden across from you until you hit Rue Royale. Continue north and you will run directly into L'église de la Madeleine.
La Madeleine
"All this will end in a marriage...a marriage at the Madeleine, you great booby! Do you believe me now? When I tell you that my nuptial mass is written...wait till you hear the Kyrie. ..."
La Madeleine was the church which Erik intended to marry Christine. Interesting history lies with the building of the church surrounding Louis XV, but I choose to point to a separate interesting fact: In 1849, the funeral of Chopin was delayed by two weeks because he had requested that Mozart's Requiem be sung. The church had permitted no females to sing in the church's choir, which disturbed the chances of the Requiem being sung since there were major parts intended for female singers. In the end, the church acquiesced in allowing female singers to partake in the funeral, so long as they were to stand behind a black curtain.
There is no reason given for Erik's choice in the Madeleine for his location of choice to marry Christine, but the best guess by many is the proximity to the Opéra. Photos were unfortunately not allowed inside so the one photo of the inside I have was taken from the internet. A fun fact of my walking tour: when I was walking toward the Madeleine, I came across a church which I believed to be the spot. I walked inside and sat down a moment, admiring how plain and simple it was. It struck me as an ideal place for Christine to be married, but it was not as elaborate and grand as I'd expect Erik to choose based off of his character in the novel. When I came to the realization I was in the wrong place, I was relieved to find the Madeleine much more fitting to what I'd believe would be Erik's wish. I believe I was in Saint Michael's church which I stumbled upon. Maybe I'll just pretend that is where Christine and Raoul went together.
La Madeleine was the church which Erik intended to marry Christine. Interesting history lies with the building of the church surrounding Louis XV, but I choose to point to a separate interesting fact: In 1849, the funeral of Chopin was delayed by two weeks because he had requested that Mozart's Requiem be sung. The church had permitted no females to sing in the church's choir, which disturbed the chances of the Requiem being sung since there were major parts intended for female singers. In the end, the church acquiesced in allowing female singers to partake in the funeral, so long as they were to stand behind a black curtain.
There is no reason given for Erik's choice in the Madeleine for his location of choice to marry Christine, but the best guess by many is the proximity to the Opéra. Photos were unfortunately not allowed inside so the one photo of the inside I have was taken from the internet. A fun fact of my walking tour: when I was walking toward the Madeleine, I came across a church which I believed to be the spot. I walked inside and sat down a moment, admiring how plain and simple it was. It struck me as an ideal place for Christine to be married, but it was not as elaborate and grand as I'd expect Erik to choose based off of his character in the novel. When I came to the realization I was in the wrong place, I was relieved to find the Madeleine much more fitting to what I'd believe would be Erik's wish. I believe I was in Saint Michael's church which I stumbled upon. Maybe I'll just pretend that is where Christine and Raoul went together.
Marketed as number 4 on map: Continue toward the east of the Madeleine onto Boulevard des Italiens. This will lead you straight into the Opéra.
Garnier Opera
I will not offer too many details here about the Opera. I have a page specifically on the building itself, inside and out. For now, I will simply mention that this was one of the stops on my walking tour. I originally intended to leave the opera behind for another time, but I was actually glad I hadn't. Being a Monday afternoon, the inside was very lonely, offering a great opportunity for photos and wandering. My tips for anybody wanting to visit the Opera are:
Marked as number 5 on the map: Continue east on Boulevard des Italiens until you run into Rue le Peletier. Go north and look for the small intersection with Rue de Rossini.
- It is quite easy to get in, but be reminded that visiting hours are between 10:00-17:00 with the last guests being let in at 16:30. This will change if there is a matinee performance, so look at the calendar of events to be sure there will be no interference.
- Tours are offered in French and English. They cover the Grand Staircase, the Grand Foyer, the auditorium (if available for visitations) and the Library/Gallery. They are informative of the details in the building as well as a bit on life at the opera. Each tour guide is different, so the information you will receive can be different each time.
- If you would like to see a performance, I recommend purchasing tickets well ahead of time.
- You do have the opportunity to arrive the night of a performance and try your luck at getting left-over tickets at a discounted rate. These tickets are not guaranteed and requires you getting to the ticketing area at about an hour and a half early to wait in line. I tried this three separate times and still never got to see a performance. It's nice if you have the time to try and prefer a chance for less money, but if your heart it set on seeing something, I do not recommend it.
Marked as number 5 on the map: Continue east on Boulevard des Italiens until you run into Rue le Peletier. Go north and look for the small intersection with Rue de Rossini.
Salle le Peletier
"Sorelli's dressing-room was fitted up with official, commonplace elegance. A pier-glass, a sofa, a dressing-table and a cupboard or two provided the necessary furniture. On the walls hung a grew engravings, relics of the mother, who had known the glories of the old Opera in the Rue le Peletier; portraits of Vestris, Gardel, Dupont, Bigottini."
Opera le Peletier was the home of the Paris Opera proceeding Garnier. From 1821 until the building was burnt down in a fire in 1873, Peletier had many names because of changes in the French government. Ultimately, it was referred to by the name of the street it was on. When King Louis XIII's nephew was stabbed outside of the Salle de la Rue de Richelieu, he ordered that the former opera be demolished and a church be built in its place. He commissioned architect François Debret to build the new opera, which was completed in the time of one year. On 29 October 1873 a fire broke by what is believed to be from the gas lighting in the building. Engulfed in flames for 27 hours, the Peletier burned down to the ground. Luckily, Baron Haussmann was hired as civic planner for the new opera designed by Charles Garnier and it was already in process of being built.
When walking down Rue le Peletier the buildings surrounding you are all similar in style and age. All except for one which I noticed, which was at the corner of Rue le Peletier and Rue Rossini. Just down the street is a hotel named Hotel de la Opera, making we curious if this modern-looking building could have been the former site of the Salle le Peletier. This building is pictured below.
Opera le Peletier was the home of the Paris Opera proceeding Garnier. From 1821 until the building was burnt down in a fire in 1873, Peletier had many names because of changes in the French government. Ultimately, it was referred to by the name of the street it was on. When King Louis XIII's nephew was stabbed outside of the Salle de la Rue de Richelieu, he ordered that the former opera be demolished and a church be built in its place. He commissioned architect François Debret to build the new opera, which was completed in the time of one year. On 29 October 1873 a fire broke by what is believed to be from the gas lighting in the building. Engulfed in flames for 27 hours, the Peletier burned down to the ground. Luckily, Baron Haussmann was hired as civic planner for the new opera designed by Charles Garnier and it was already in process of being built.
When walking down Rue le Peletier the buildings surrounding you are all similar in style and age. All except for one which I noticed, which was at the corner of Rue le Peletier and Rue Rossini. Just down the street is a hotel named Hotel de la Opera, making we curious if this modern-looking building could have been the former site of the Salle le Peletier. This building is pictured below.
Marked as number 6 on the map: Go back south on Rue le Peletier toward Boulevard Haussman. Go east on Haussman, which will become Boulevard Montmartre. Once you find Rue de Richelieu, go south. Continue east on Rue du 4 de Septembre, which will turn into Pl. de la Bourse just before you will find Rue de Notre Dame des Victois which is the final destination on the walk.
Rue Notre-Dame des Victoires
"[Raoul] trembled as he rang at the little flat in the Rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires. The door was opened by the maid whom he had seen coming out of Christine's dressing room one evening. He asked if he could speak to Mme Valerius."
This was my favorite part of my tour aside from Garnier. This is the street where Christine lived with her adoptive mother, Madame Valerius. It is a small street off of the Boulevard Haussmann. Haussmann is one of the large boulevards created in Paris to try and avoid the people's uprisings and barricading of small, narrow streets. Ironic that this quiet Medieval street is right off of the massive boulevard, when Notre-Dame des Victoires would have been perfect for such activity. It is dark and quiet, with only small apartments lined closely against each other. Hardly any cars drive down here because it leads nowhere of importance to many. One can see the cutting of buildings faces to make room for sidewalks and carriages, which is the best indicator of age on Parisian streets. At the end of the street is a small church -- Notre-Dame des Victoires -- which had the first cornerstone laid by King Louis XIII. This area seemed quite fitting for a humble artist to live and even while seeing through the windows of some of these flats, I could see a young woman caring for her elderly mother there.
This was my favorite part of my tour aside from Garnier. This is the street where Christine lived with her adoptive mother, Madame Valerius. It is a small street off of the Boulevard Haussmann. Haussmann is one of the large boulevards created in Paris to try and avoid the people's uprisings and barricading of small, narrow streets. Ironic that this quiet Medieval street is right off of the massive boulevard, when Notre-Dame des Victoires would have been perfect for such activity. It is dark and quiet, with only small apartments lined closely against each other. Hardly any cars drive down here because it leads nowhere of importance to many. One can see the cutting of buildings faces to make room for sidewalks and carriages, which is the best indicator of age on Parisian streets. At the end of the street is a small church -- Notre-Dame des Victoires -- which had the first cornerstone laid by King Louis XIII. This area seemed quite fitting for a humble artist to live and even while seeing through the windows of some of these flats, I could see a young woman caring for her elderly mother there.
Faubourg Saint-Germain
"I remember perfectly that, a few weeks before the disappearance of that great singer, Christine Daae, and the tragedy which threw the whole of the Faubourg Saint-Germain into mourning, there was a great deal of talk, in the foyer of the ballet, on the subject of the "ghost."
The Faubourg Saint-Germain came about after French nobles sought to get away from the Marais, which was at the time to place for those of wealth to reside. The term le Faubourg has been used since this transition to describe high society. Even today, the Faubourg as well as the whole of the 7th Arrondissment is considered one of the most exclusive sections of Paris. It is suggested that this would have been the residence of Raoul de Chagny after a couple of mentions in the novel when speaking of those within the upper class. I didn't get here until a few days after my original walk, but it was neat to see. Not only because I appreciate Raoul but because it was interesting to get an idea of how he and the rest of the French aristocracy lived their lives in Paris. These houses are still very much part of Paris, yet it is very different from the typical layout of shops on the rez-de-chaussée with apartments settled above.
It is more difficult to describe where to go to find the Faubourg Saint-Germain, because it is a wide-spread area. It is bordered between the Seine to the north, Boulevard des Invalides to the west and Rue de Saint-Péres on the east.
"Meanwhile, he was enjoying a long furlough which would not be over for six months; and already the dowagers of the Faubourg Saint-Germain were pitying the handsome and apparently delicate stripling for the hard work in store for him."
The Faubourg Saint-Germain came about after French nobles sought to get away from the Marais, which was at the time to place for those of wealth to reside. The term le Faubourg has been used since this transition to describe high society. Even today, the Faubourg as well as the whole of the 7th Arrondissment is considered one of the most exclusive sections of Paris. It is suggested that this would have been the residence of Raoul de Chagny after a couple of mentions in the novel when speaking of those within the upper class. I didn't get here until a few days after my original walk, but it was neat to see. Not only because I appreciate Raoul but because it was interesting to get an idea of how he and the rest of the French aristocracy lived their lives in Paris. These houses are still very much part of Paris, yet it is very different from the typical layout of shops on the rez-de-chaussée with apartments settled above.
It is more difficult to describe where to go to find the Faubourg Saint-Germain, because it is a wide-spread area. It is bordered between the Seine to the north, Boulevard des Invalides to the west and Rue de Saint-Péres on the east.
"Meanwhile, he was enjoying a long furlough which would not be over for six months; and already the dowagers of the Faubourg Saint-Germain were pitying the handsome and apparently delicate stripling for the hard work in store for him."
Bois de Boulogne
"Raoul would probably have refused any invitation that evening, if the count had not, as any inducement, told him that the lady of his thoughts had been seen, the night before, in the company of the other sex in the Bois... Alas, he was a very sorry guest and, leaving his brother early, found himself, by ten o'clock in the evening, in a cab, behind the Longchamp race-course."
More than two times larger than Central Park in New York City, the Bois de Boulogne is a park on the edge of the 16th arrondissment of Paris. It was the spot where Erik took Christine on carriage rides and where Raoul chased after their carriage after a night of longing to know Christine's secrets by the Longchamp racetrack. Formerly woodlands, Napoleon III had the area changed into a park in 1852. It was quite manufactured to be reminiscent of parks in London, where Napoleon was exiled. It has had a history of prostitution, but the government has done well in keeping the park clear from this as well as making events to keep the large area maintained. A summer event is held for bands and musical performers, where mostly students camp overnight and hop from performance to performance. The 1900 Paris Olympics placed the croquet and tug-of-war events within the park, giving it a popular name at the time.
The best part of going to the Bois was that I got to play in the snow. I was actively snowing that whole afternoon and for a southern California girl who'd never experienced that before, it was quite a treat. While it was difficult to get too far into the park, it was great to get to see just how large it was even though we just went through a very small portion of it.
The Bois can be accessed through many different Metro stops, but the closest are the Porte d'Auteuil, Porte Dauphine and Porte Maillot stops.
"[at the Rue Scribe gates] a carriage awaited us and took us to the Bois. That night when we met you was nearly fatal to me, for he is terribly jealous of you and I had to tell him that you wre going away..."
More than two times larger than Central Park in New York City, the Bois de Boulogne is a park on the edge of the 16th arrondissment of Paris. It was the spot where Erik took Christine on carriage rides and where Raoul chased after their carriage after a night of longing to know Christine's secrets by the Longchamp racetrack. Formerly woodlands, Napoleon III had the area changed into a park in 1852. It was quite manufactured to be reminiscent of parks in London, where Napoleon was exiled. It has had a history of prostitution, but the government has done well in keeping the park clear from this as well as making events to keep the large area maintained. A summer event is held for bands and musical performers, where mostly students camp overnight and hop from performance to performance. The 1900 Paris Olympics placed the croquet and tug-of-war events within the park, giving it a popular name at the time.
The best part of going to the Bois was that I got to play in the snow. I was actively snowing that whole afternoon and for a southern California girl who'd never experienced that before, it was quite a treat. While it was difficult to get too far into the park, it was great to get to see just how large it was even though we just went through a very small portion of it.
The Bois can be accessed through many different Metro stops, but the closest are the Porte d'Auteuil, Porte Dauphine and Porte Maillot stops.
"[at the Rue Scribe gates] a carriage awaited us and took us to the Bois. That night when we met you was nearly fatal to me, for he is terribly jealous of you and I had to tell him that you wre going away..."
Additional stops
Though I did not get to make it to every location I'd originally planned, I did make it to what I most wanted to see. Listed are a few other locations which tie into the story of the Phantom which you may like to visit.
If you do get the chance and would like to add to this site, feel free to email me with photos and a description and I will post it with your credits.
If you do get the chance and would like to add to this site, feel free to email me with photos and a description and I will post it with your credits.
- 90 Saint-Germain des Pres (the home where Charles Garnier died)
- École Royale des Beaux-Arts de Paris (where Charles Garnier attended school for architecture)
- Les Catacombs (not the same as the vaults under the opera, but a look at the underground world of Paris)